Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.